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               Cold, 
                          clear, and quiet,
               
                p2
               
              
              
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               A 
                        photodetector, on it's way down into darkness.
              
             
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            Other 
                    scientists lower crystalline spheres in long chains thousands 
                    of meters down into the dark, clear ice,where they hang in 
                    darkness for years, looking for the faint blue light tracings 
                    of neutrinos. These ghostlike particles, nearly without mass,are 
                    created by the most violent events in the universe, like black 
                    holes and supernovae. They pass through matter nearly unimpeded, 
                    crossing vast interstellar distances like messengers from 
                    the formation of space and time--- in the clear, pure darkness 
                    of the Antarctic ice these photodetectors catch some trace 
                    of a rare collision between a neutrino and the matter our 
                    our earth. In silence broken only by the wind and the hum 
                    of computers, the universe is seen.
           
           
          
           
            In 
                    this cold place, humans make for themselves a warm community. 
                    Somehow, human nature improves when there are fewer of us, 
                    and we face some enormous outside force that threatens us--- 
                    here at the South Pole, we need each other to a degree that's 
                    disquieting. To be alone here is to be, in some way, in danger. 
                    The summer community of 200+ lives and eats in a space designed 
                    for 65, and yet everyone bears with the crowding and the lack 
                    of privacy with grace, and only the occasional snarl. It's 
                    a
            
             small
            
            town-- everyone knows everyone, and gossip 
                    is inescapable. But it's friendly, too, and at this time of 
                    year, with family celebrating the holidays far away, it's 
                    good to have this surrogate family around you, offering the 
                    welcome noise and chafe of a human place, here amidst the 
                    immense white silence.
           
           
          
           
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               The 
                        holiday feast is set in the South Pole Galley, waiting 
                        for the diners.
              
             
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